Two Restaurants In India Are Fighting Over Who Invented Butter Chicken And Now It’s Gone To Delhi’s High Court

The roots of this dispute can be traced back to pre-independence India, when the country was still under British rule.

Two Restaurants In India Are Fighting Over Who Invented Butter Chicken And Now It’s Gone To Delhi’s High Court

Two restaurants in India are fighting over who invented butter chicken and now it’s gone all the way to Delhi’s high court.

First, let’s introduce the characters — Moti Mahal and Daryaganj, two iconic restaurants in India’s capital, Delhi.

butter chicken debate
A waiter serves butter chicken at the Moti Mahal restaurant in New Delhi. (Photo by Arun SANKAR / AFP) / To go with India-culture-food-court’, FOCUS by Abhaya SRIVASTAVA)

The dispute erupted after Moti Mahal sued Daryaganj, saying it had not only falsely claimed it had invented butter chicken but dal makhani – a buttery lentil dish – too.

Dal Makhani
Dal Makhani for Weeknight Veg photographed for Voraciously in Arlington, Virginia on November 9, 2020. (Tom McCorkle for The Washington Post via Getty Images; food styling by Lisa Cherkasky for The Washington Post via Getty Images)

The roots of this story can be traced back to pre-independence India, when the country was still under British rule.

 Indian butter chicken

When India and Pakistan became independent countries in 1947, two men, Kundan Lal Gujral and Kundan Lal Jaggi, migrated from Pakistan’s Peshawar to India’s Delhi.

moti mahal indian restaurant Kundan Lal Gujral Kundan Lal Jaggi

There, they established a restaurant named Moti Mahal.

Old Moti Mahal Delhi

Over time, Moti Mahal became famous for introducing people to different tandoori cuisines, and in 1990s, Gujral and Jaggi sold the restaurant as a franchise.

Then, in 2019, Jaggi’s grandson opened Daryaganj to honor his grandfather’s legacy.

Daryaganj delhi

Moti Mahal says Gujral had invented butter chicken when he created a gravy with chopped tomatoes, cream, butter, spices and sugar so he could add it to leftover tandoori chicken every night.

moti mahal vs daryaganj
Monish Gujral, the owner of Moti Mahal, prepares butter chicken at his restaurant, during an interview with AFP in New Delhi. (Photo by Arun SANKAR / AFP) / To go with India-culture-food-court’, FOCUS by Abhaya SRIVASTAVA)

On the other hand, Daryaganj says Jaggi had come up with the dish to feed a large group of refugees late one night when the kitchen was nearly out of stock except for some bits of tandoori chicken.

Indian curry butter chicken
A waiter serves butter chicken to customers at the Moti Mahal restaurant in New Delhi. (Photo by Arun SANKAR / AFP) / To go with India-culture-food-court’, FOCUS by Abhaya SRIVASTAVA

Moti Mahal, however, argues that the gravy for butter chicken can’t just be made on the spot.

who invented butter chicken
A waiter carries a butter chicken dish at the Moti Mahal restaurant in New Delhi. (Photo by Arun SANKAR / AFP) / To go with India-culture-food-court’, FOCUS by Abhaya SRIVASTAVA

It has sued Daryaganj for 20 million rupees or about 240,000 US dollars for unfair competition and infringing on its copyright.

Indian butter chicken gravy
Butter chicken dish served at the Moti Mahal restaurant in New Delhi. (Photo by Arun SANKAR / AFP) / To go with India-culture-food-court’, FOCUS by Abhaya SRIVASTAVA

The Delhi top court began its first hearing in January but has yet to pass judgement.

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